7-day Western Cyclades sailing itinerary from Athens

The western Cyclades are the nearest of the Greek islands most people picture: white villages on bare hills, sandy bays, and fewer yachts than further east. Kea, Kythnos and Serifos are all within reach of Athens in a week, round Cape Sounion.

This loop starts and ends at Alimos Marina and covers about 130 nautical miles in six sailing days, with two longer passages of more than 20 miles out and back. It is a more open, more demanding week than the Saronic Gulf — and in July and August it is shaped by the meltemi.

Day by day

Distances are approximate. In a meltemi the order and the overnight stops change to keep the wind behind or on the beam, and a day waiting in harbour is part of sailing here.

About 132 nautical miles in all

Day 1 — Alimos Marina
Night: Alimos Marina
Check in from 15:00, provision, and walk through the yacht with our team. Sleep aboard in the marina so that you can leave early for the longest passage of the week.
Day 2 — Alimos to Kea, by Cape Sounion
About 36 nautical miles · Night: Vourkari, or Korissia harbour, Kea
About 22 miles down the coast to Cape Sounion, where you can anchor for lunch below the Temple of Poseidon, then about 14 miles across the Kea channel. Leave early in meltemi season to cross before the afternoon wind.
Vourkari's quay is lined with tavernas; from Korissia a bus climbs to Ioulida, the island's hilltop village, and the ancient stone Lion of Kea.
Day 3 — Kea to Kythnos
About 17 nautical miles · Night: At anchor at Kolona, or in Merichas harbour
South along the west coast of Kea to Kythnos. Kolona, a sandbar joining Kythnos to the islet of Agios Loukas, has a beach on either side — anchor on whichever side is sheltered from the wind.
In a strong northerly, carry on a few miles to Merichas, the island's main harbour, on the sheltered west coast.
Day 4 — Kythnos to Serifos
About 17 nautical miles · Night: Livadi, Serifos
South to Serifos and the deep, sheltered bay of Livadi, with its harbour and beaches.
In the evening, take the bus or climb the steps to Chora, one of the most striking hilltop villages in the Cyclades, for sunset.
Day 5 — Serifos to Kythnos
About 16 nautical miles · Night: Merichas, or Loutra in settled weather
Swim in one of Serifos's southern bays in the morning, then sail back north to Kythnos. Loutra, on the east coast, has a small harbour and hot springs that run into the sea; in a northerly, Merichas is the more comfortable night.
With more than a week, Sifnos is only about 12 miles south of Serifos and well worth the extra days.
Day 6 — Kythnos to Cape Sounion
About 24 nautical miles · Night: At anchor below the Temple of Poseidon, Sounion
The passage back towards the mainland, north-west past the southern tip of Kea. In a meltemi this is the harder way, so leave early.
Anchor in the bay below the temple and watch the sun set behind it from the deck.
Day 7 — Sounion to Alimos
About 22 nautical miles · Night: Alimos Marina
Up the coast of Attica, past Lagonisi and Vouliagmeni, back to Alimos. Check-out is at 09:00 the next morning, Saturday.

The meltemi, and when this route is wise

The meltemi is the dry northerly wind of the Aegean summer. It blows mostly from June to September, strongest in July and August, from the north-east around Athens and Kea and from the north further south. Force 5 to 6 on the Beaufort scale is common, force 7 frequent, and force 8 not unknown; it often builds through the day and can blow for several days at a time.

Between Cape Sounion and Kea the channel squeezes the wind, and the sea there builds short and steep. The route above crosses it on the first and last days, so those are the passages to time carefully.

May, June and September into early October: the best months for this route, with steady breezes and fewer strong-wind days.
July and August: for experienced crews, or with a skipper. Plan the longer legs for the early morning, keep a day in hand, and be ready to switch to the Saronic Gulf if a strong meltemi is forecast for the week.
Not wise for a first bareboat charter in a strong-meltemi week: the open crossings and crowded harbour manoeuvres in 25 knots of wind are a lot to take on at once.

Who this route suits

Crews with some sailing behind them who want open-water passages and proper sailing days.
First-timers and families who want the islands without the responsibility: take a skipper, who will choose the sheltered side of each island and the calmer hours to sail.
Groups of friends: Kea and Serifos have lively harbour fronts, and the anchorages are quieter than the Saronic's in high summer.

Yachts for the Western Cyclades

A longer, heavier yacht is more comfortable in the short, steep seas the meltemi raises, and gives a crew more room for a day in port. These suit this route best: Achilleas, a Sun Odyssey 490; Rozerina, a Bavaria Cruiser 46; Ikalos, a Sun Odyssey 440 which, at more than 13 metres, calls for an experienced skipper; and our two Lagoon 400 S2 catamarans, Stefania and Doris, steady and roomy for families.

Each is below with this season's weekly price. For a gentler week, see the 7-day Saronic Gulf route.